Film : I believe I can fly

Skyliners Project:

The talented friends featured in this film have been instrumental in the innovation and development of highlining and baselining, and this exciting project was born from their passion and love for what they do.
It was filmed amongst a group of friends, with no funding or sponsorship for the training, filming & production involved.
We have been overwhelmed by the reaction from people viewing our film and by all your comments, and we hope to be able to film more projects in the months & years to come.
If you would like to contribute to future projects, please download the film for 4.90€ below, or make a donation via the link – proceeds will go to the highliners and the smallest donation will help turn more dreams into reality.

Watch it here: http://sebmontaz.com/videos/237-i-believe-i-can-fly-flight-of-the-frenchies

Wide Boys climb Century Crack, 8C

Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker are in the US for 8 weeks in search of the most difficult off-widths they could find. "Century Crack" is the hardest off-width in the world. Stevie Haston attempted this route in the 90's with no success. No one believed the route would ever be climbed...

Alstrin Film & Hot Aches Productions have teamed up to document their two year journey.

Look for the film - Fall 2012

More info: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64870

Alpine Bouldering - Summer 2011

Video: Rock climbing techniques

Petzl Micro Traxion

The Micro Traxion is a redesign of Petzl’s Mini Traxion, it’s about 20% more efficient than the Mini and weights in at 85 g — nearly half the weight.

It can be used with ropes ranging from 8 to 11 mm.

The Micro Traxion can be used in three different systems: first is the progress-capture pulley system that uses sealed ball bearings — making it 91% efficient. For those who aren’t familiar with pulley efficiency, there are two factors that determine a pulley’s efficiency: The larger the wheel — also known as the sheave — that your rope runs over, the more efficient it is and finally, you’ve got bushings vs. bearings; bushings need to be maintained regularly while sealed ball bearings require little maintenance and are very efficient. The main difference between both is that sealed bearings can be used in giddy environments, ie. canyoneering, rock climbing, caving, ice climbing etc., while bushing are a little less expensive and slightly stronger mechanically, they can jam with ice and get dirty in messy environments.

The Mini Traxion can also be used as a pulley and glide freely when it’s locked into the open position, and lastly, it can be used as an ascender.

Bottom Line: This thing is light, efficient, and will likely win awards for its all-around uses.

You’ll likely see it hitting shelves in the U.S. in March 2012 and retail for $95.

Recall of Crux, Nara and Nemo harnesses

Singing Rock is notifying to customers that some of the produced climbing harnesses CRUX, NARA, NEMO may pose a potential casualty hazard due to inaccuracy in the production. 

This defect was identified at regular internal quality inspection and up to know there are no reports of this defect coming from normal use.

If you own any of mentioned products, please, read this important notice.

Identification - Name of the Product/production lots involved:
The lot number can be found on the label as pictured below and is either the 7 digits in the larger lot number. Compare these 7 digits with the list of numbers given below. In the case of a match, return the product to your dealer as directed below.

CRUX
1071050; 1071051; 1071130; 1075163; 1075162; 1077978;
1077980; 1062912; 1064334; 1063634; 1071048; 1071049;
1071129; 1075159; 1075160; 1075161; 1080987; 1071046;
1071047; 1071128; 1075158; 1077981; 1086111; 1071054;
1071131; 1077976; 1077977; 1070798; 1071045; 1071127;
1086110

NARA
1071104; 1071105; 1071106; 1075178; 1078062; 1062913;
1063636; 1064362; 1071101; 1071102; 1071103; 1075176;
1075177; 1078063; 1089901; 1086397; 1071093; 1071100;
1075174; 1075175; 1071088; 1071090; 1075173; 1085477;
1085479

NEMO
1071120; 1071121; 1071122; 1075166; 1075167; 1075168;
1089748; 1075169; 1062916; 1064364; 1063638; 1071123;
1071124; 1075170; 1071125; 1075171; 1075172; 1080254;
1086109

Manufacturer: LANEX a.s., division Singing Rock
Date of Manufacture: 10/2010 – 5/2011

Hazard: Possible inaccuracy in a production resulting in lower waist belt strength of the harness

Till nowadays there are no reports of this defect coming from normal use. Nonetheless, Singing Rock is acting pro-actively on this matter given the potential casualty hazard. Based on this matter is decided to change construction of stitching for CRUX and construction change of NARA and NEMO to avoid possible safety hazard.

PLEASE RETURN THESE HARNESSES FOR REPLACEMENT WITH A PERFECT PRODUCT TO YOUR NEAREST STORE OR DISTRIBUTOR.

Source: Singing Rock

Recall for replacement: GRIGRI 2

If you have a GRIGRI 2 (D14 2O, D14 2G, D14 2B) with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136, stop use immediately and contact Petzl America to initiate an exchange.

Background

Figure 1

Petzl has discovered that exerting excessive force on the fully extended handle of the GRIGRI 2 can cause internal damage, such that the GRIGRI 2 handle may become stuck in the open position.

When the handle is stuck in this position the assisted braking function is disabled. A damaged GRIGRI 2 in this configuration will function similarly to a manual belay device (e.g. tube style device).

When using a damaged GRIGRI 2 with the handle stuck in the position as shown in Figure 1, failure to control the braking side of the rope will increase the risk of an uncontrolled descent. A GRIGRI 2 with a damaged handle must be immediately retired from service.

It is important to note that failure to control the braking side of the rope is a misuse of the GRIGRI 2 under any circumstance (See GRIGRI 2 Technical Notice - pdf file, 2,5Mo).

As of June 20, 2011, seven damaged products have been returned to Petzl through our worldwide distribution network. Petzl has no knowledge of any accidents resulting from a damaged GRIGRI 2 handle.

Petzl Response

Because the safety of our users is our primary concern, as a measure of precaution Petzl has decided to take the following actions:

• increase the mechanical strength of the handle on all GRIGRI 2’s since serial number 11137.
• recall all GRIGRI 2’s with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136, and replace with a new revised GRIGRI 2.

Petzl will pay for all shipping costs to complete this replacement.

If you have a GRIGRI 2 (D14 2O, D14 2G, D14 2B) with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136, stop use immediately and contact Petzl America to initiate an exchange.

Contact Petzl America in one of two ways:
- By phone: 1 (800) 932-2978 (toll free)
- By email: grigri2recall@petzl.com

The previous generation GRIGRI is not concerned by this recall.

"While the potential risk of damaging the GRIGRI 2’s handle is very small, our total commitment to the safety of our users has led us to make this decision. With the summer climbing season just beginning, Petzl understands that this recall comes at an inconvenient time and we are working hard to ensure that everyone receives their replacement GRIGRI 2 as quickly as possible. Everyone at Petzl is committed to resolving this issue. We thank you for your continued support."

Romain Lécot
Petzl General DirectorSource: Petzl

Dragon cam Size 4 & 5 Recall (DMM Climbing)

On February 15, 2011, DMM received information from a U.S retailer regarding size 5 (blue) Dragon Cams. They have found cracks on the alumimum axle boss on two of the size 5 Dragon Cams they have in stock. This boss is a turned part similar to the original Dragon 6 that we recalled on the July 22. 2010.

For the safety of all of our customers, we are issuing an immediate recall for all Dragon Cams size 4 and 5 with turned axle bosses (see images below). At present, there is no evidence that suggests the size 4 Dragon Cams are affected. However, we feel it appropriate to include them in the recall due to similarities in construction.

What you should do if in possession of a cam as shown on the left in the pictures above, please discontinue use immediately and follow the steps below:
Print out this form.
Fill in the form.
Both the form and the Dragon Cams need to be sent together to us at the DMM address on the form.

There are 3 ways of doing this:
Directly to us;
back to the retailer where the Dragon cam was purchased;
or to your national distributor, U.S. customers only—call Excalibur for returns info 801.942.8471, ship to: Excalibur, 9715 Kelly Brook, Sandy, UT 84092,xcalibur@mindspring.com

If you are a retailer or distributor, please quarantine all affected stock immediately and follow your standard returns procedure.

What we will do: We promise to deal with the situation as quickly and efficiently as we can. All units will be reassembled with a new hot forged aluminium axle boss and returned to you. Our first and foremost priority is the safety of the climbing community. We apologize for any inconvenience caused and thank you for your continued understanding and support. More information will follow after further investigation. 

www.dmmclimbing.com

Beal Uni Core Enhances Climbing Rope Safety

Beal has recently come up with a new rope technology, called Uni Core, which binds the sheath of the rope to the core, enhancing safety in extreme conditions. By allowing the sheath and core to stay bonded together, sheath slippage is virtually eliminated in the event of a cut.

Below you can find the demonstration video (in English). For other languages (French, Spanish, German and Italian) click here.

By eliminating sheath slippage, Uni Core allows a climber/caver to safely pass the damaged section of the rope should the sheath be cut. Where the sheath of normal climbing ropes frays when cut, Uni Core allows temporary cutting of rope lengths without melting the ends.

Uni Core also helps to reduce shrinkage in water by up to 50%, all without affecting the ease of use and suppleness of the climbing rope.

Beal has implemented this technology in a whole new range of Uni Core ropes for caving (Spelenium) and climbing (Access, WallMaster, WallSchool) .



Source: http://www.beal-planet.com/sport/anglais/unicore.php

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Mammut recently developed a similiar technology: They mechanically link the outer sheath to the inner core using the so-called „quick braid technology”, giving the same advantages. (no need to melt the ends after cutting, no sheat slippage or shrinking and enhanced safety)

More info can be found on their website: http://www.mammut.ch/en/ropes_reep_procords.html

Marquette Backcountry skis: Forget about skins!

Dave Ollila, the inventor of the Marquette backcountry skis designed them so that they requires no skins to climb but can slide down easily without catching.

The idea behind it was to find something that was, much like snowshoes, flexible enough to let anyone explore the woods and hills in winter but at the same time be able to enjoy a faster downhill experience.

The unique scale design on the bottom of the skis grabs the snow and keeps the skis from sliding backwards while climbing.

Threaded inserts allow for no-drill mounting of standard three pin bindings so you don't have to go out and buy all new special kit.

The Marquette backcountry skis costs $179 and can be directly purchased from the company's website.

Helmet Releases Awful Stink When Damaged

You know the feeling-you have taken the occasional rock or ice chunk to the head or had a couple of nasty falls on your mountain bike but don't want to get a new helmet without knowing for sure the old one is toast. Well now you will be able to know for certain if it is necessary to replace your helmet with a new process that causes stinky oils to seep out of plastic materials when they are damaged.

Only completely damage-free helmets do the job of protecting your head properly. Normally it is recommended that you buy a new helmet after a certain period of time but it is hard to throw away a perfectly good helmet and spend money on a new one.

Developed by research scientists at the Fraunhofer Institute in Germany, a new helmet making process produces polymer materials or plastics that start to smell if they develop small cracks. Large cracks will really cause a stink.

The smell comes from stinky oils enclosed in microcapsules, measuring just 1 to 50 micrometers, which break if cracked. A layer of melamine formaldehyde resin encloses the capsules so that they are completely airtight and mechanically sealed until broken.

The capsules will open and exude the stinky substance at a level according to the amount of damage, as a sort of warning indicator. This means you will know you need to change out your helmet way before the damage gets outside of the recommended safety range for failing.

The microcapsules are inserted in a thick foil made of polypropylene, which is fastened to the head gear. So now you know if you are intentionally dropped on your morning ride or can't find a belay partner anymore, it is probably time for a new helmet.

When will we see this being picked up by Petzl, Black Diamond and others for their climbing/caving helmets?

Source: The Gear Caster (Under Creative Commons License: Attribution Share Alike)